Category: Tutorials

Film Simulations

Fujifilm cameras with their built-in film simulation settings are currently very popular for quickly generating images (jpgs) for social media. Other camera makers have camera menu settings or profiles such as ‘Vivid’ or ‘Monochrome’ that produce in-camera jpgs with similar results. But Fujifilm cameras take the color science further, by adding ‘analog film’ simulations. These result in photos that look like they were taken using a film camera using Fuji or Kodak roll film. These film simulation effects can also be applied to videos shot with Fujifilm cameras.

What are film simulations? They are basically a manipulation of the color and contrast to emphasize different color spectrum. Some presets even add grain to truly emulate particular film characteristics. Adjusting in-camera digital sensor settings can result in a photo that emulates a particular film stock. When I shot film, I chose Fuji film when I wanted to enhance the green; I’d use Kodak Velvia for neutral flesh tones; Kodachrome for reds; Ektachrome for blues.
There are websites dedicated to different camera ‘film recipes’ that photographers can program into their non-Fujifilm cameras. There are additional recipes for Fujifilm cameras (for specific sensor generations) that can also be added. Most newer digital cameras have custom settings that can save these recipes then apply them to jpgs when dialed-in.

Sources for film simulation presets:
Of course you can Google ‘Film simulation presets‘ and find many available. The ones I’ve tried are:

  • FreePSDvn.com – has many free presets organized by style or effect. They ask for a coffee donation if you find them useful.
  • DXO Filmpack – commercial film simulation with a 30-day trial. This is a great set of presets especially if you want to try nostalgic film processes as well as Agfa, Fuji, Illford, and Kodak film simulations. Wait for Black Friday when this goes on sale.
  • Nikonpc.com – this is a resource for the Nikon shooter. Unlike digital darkroom presets, this site has in-camera film simulations you can program into your Nikon camera. Then your Nikon can generate jpgs in-camera like Fujifilm cameras. Film simulations are selected from the in-camera menu and can be programmed to the custom buttons.
  • FujiXWeekly.com – has a collection of film simulation recipes that are compatible with Fujifilm cameras, sensor-specific: X-Trans V, IV, III, II, & I. They also have an app (iOS or Android) with recipes ie settings that can be programmed into Fujifilm cameras and saved.


Why use film simulations when shooting digitally? Digital cameras will produce neutrally-toned images based on the camera manufacturer’s color science. People often choose a camera based on this – some people prefer Sony’s color science, others like Canon or Nikon, especially in regards to skin tones. This is especially true for photographers generating jpgs directly from the camera not wanting to wait or post-process.
Some photographers, like myself, prefer to shoot jpg+raw. Raw format offers the most information & potential for post-processing in a digital darkroom – computer software like Lightroom, Adobe Camera Raw, Capture One, or PhotoLab. But camera-generated jpgs are handy to include since they are available to share immediately without post-processing.
My current workflow is to shoot raw and process the photos in Lightroom & Photoshop. This results in (potentially) the truest representation of what I was photographing. Allowing me to maximize the dynamic range, adjust the color, & balance the exposure of the scene. Any experienced Lightroom or Photoshop user can create their own presets and save them. These presets can then be applied at different percentages (<100%) and their intensity or effect adjusted using sliders.
I started photographing using Nikon film cameras a long time ago. So lately, I’ve been curious about making digital photos that emulate analog film from that time. The ability to generate images with analog film color science applied can results in photos that are more of an artistic interpretation. At least in my mind. So lately, my post-processing is to start with analog film presets professionally formulated then adjusting settings after their application.
Buying a Fujifilm camera and using their built-in film types is a very popular practice for photographers interested in analog film simulation. But, if like me, you are invested in another camera system. You can find film simulation presets (many free) that work on raw images or jpgs from any camera. I can shoot normally – raw+jpg – and in the digital darkroom (Lightroom) apply different film simulation presets after I’ve edited the raw image. This allows more flexibility than in-camera film simulation jpgs by allowing you to try different film simulations on a single (edited or unedited) image. You lose the immediacy of in-camera jpgs being uploadable to social media. But you can experiment with different film simulations and find the one most appealing for the subject matter – flesh tones for example.

Here are some results


Wes Anderson Presets (for @accidentallywesanderson)


Other Film Simulations

HEIC to JPG Conversion

The latest Apple iPhone camera format has a more efficient algorithm for storing image information in less space. Unfortunately, unless you work regularly in the Apple environment – MacBook, IPad, IPhone – the format may be unviewable. These are hopefully temporary growing-pain for this new efficient image format as more and more photography programs accept the new format. In the meantime, there are several workarounds to work with or convert HEIC to JPG:

  • HEIC to JPG (for Windows, free)      https://www.copytrans.net/copytransheic/
    I find converting the HEIC to JPG to be one of the easiest solutions and this free utility makes it pretty easy to convert multiple heic to jpg photos.
  • In Windows 10/11, you can convert a HEIC by viewing the photo in Windows Photo, usually accessed by double-clicking the heic file. You may need to install Microsoft Window’s free file extension:

then click the … in the upper right corner and ‘save as’

then select ‘jpg’. This is easy but if you are doing more than one photo, you’ll have to repeat the process for each image.

  • Microsoft Windows Store has a bunch of free and paid apps that will convert HEIC to JPG if you want more features:

Google ‘HEIC to JPG’ and there are plenty of articles that explain many ways to convert HEIC to JPG. I ended up changing my iPhone image format to JPG to eliminate the need to do the conversion since I post many photos online. Once HEIC works with WordPress and browsers, it will become my format of choice. But unitl then, the space savings of the new format are not compelling enough to add the inconvenience of the conversion step.

Googled “HEIC to JPG’ articles: How-To-Geek Article & Tom’s Guide Article

Masking in Lightroom & Adobe Camera Raw

Lightroom and Adobe Camera Raw have features that allow masking of photographic images. Masking is essentially ‘dodging’ and ‘burning’ your digital image, only supercharged. In addition to lightening or darkening areas of your photo, masking allows you to change much more, like saturation and contrast.
One of the best recent features is ‘intersecting masks‘ – the combining of more than one mask to resolve specific elements in a photo, like petals, leaves, or particular color.

Applying A Mask
By applying a mask, the photographer can manipulate specific areas or objects in an image to emphasize and eliminate elements. Both Lightroom and Adobe Camera Raw have masking AI (artificial intelligence) that can automatically select specific areas of the photo, like a person, sky, or background. Additionally, you can add or subtract to the mask by selecting specific mask criteria like color or luminescence, or by using a brush or eyedropper to select a detail.

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Tutorial: Adding Bokeh w/ Photoshop 2022-2023

I love bokeh and when shooting with my micro 4/3 Olympus or Panasonic camera, bokeh isn’t as good. Adobe Photoshop 2023 (& 2022) have include ‘neural filters’ – artificial intelligence filters – that can recognize and auto-select (auto-mask) the main subject. The amount of blur is a slider that can really add a nice bokeh effect to soften a background. The latest version is excellent at simulating depth-of-field – making the plane of the subject sharp. This works with any photo you can import & edit in Photoshop so any camera format – micro 4/3, APS-C, Full-Frame, iPhone.

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